Shaft and spindle sfmzq20-01a.Toshiba SR-D33 Service manual -Service Manual Download|Circuit Download|Download Drawings|schematic download|route map download|free download user manual They use stator frame SFMG520-31A and motor drive IC AN6675. The SL-M3 stands out, a linear tracker, and it adds 4dB lower rumble with the motor. With the right parts it can be turned into a turntable that plays an LP to "scratch" CD audio, or add a tonearm to that.Īnother member on here now owns my SL-Q2. You might see an interesting one there, the SL-DZ1200 DJ CD player. (think the SL10/15 are in error as their service manual has only a complete assembly part#) While I respect most people's opinions, I don't really accept them as my own unless my own preferences and perspectives align with theirs.Ĭlick to expand.That is so. It's like any opinion, it's based on their preferences and perspectives. If you're a bigger fan of the automation, then taking a slight hit on performance is something you're sacrifice. It has additional functionality over a manual turntable. With something like the SL-Q3 with all it's automation, you're introducing additional vibrations from the motors and servos that can transfer directly through the tonearm to the cartridge. The same thing is going on with S/N on a turntable. These have deep blacks which strengthen the contrast and vibrancy to the colors. If we look at television as metaphor, the best TV's currently available are OLED. The design of the plinth is indicative of the how well the cartridge is isolated from the vibrations both from the platter motor and the environment. Slop in tolerances reduces the precision of the cartridges tracking and the speed of the platter. And the rest of the deck represents nothing but noise. The cartridge used is both indicative of both signal strength and the quality characteristics extracted from the groove. The higher the better, but a turntable has a very high correlation to this spec. The key thing you have to keep in mind is the concept of signal to noise ratio. You should buy the turntable that better corrects problem you hold as more problematic. What you view as more important depends on your perspective. The point I'm trying to make is that there isn't a perfect turntable. So a really heavy platter with a belt drive can be as precise but probably not as accurate. As far as platter speed, a Direct Drive is continuously correcting the speed errors, which means it's never actually precise. One solution to reduce the errors is incorporate a longer tonearm. Anytime you use a radial pivot, there will be errors in the tracking angle. And there isn't really a best way to do this. There are different ways to design a turntable. Tighter tolerance parts both cost more to fabricate and usually special tooling to assemble. If you look at the higher end units, automation is dropped and costs are redistributed to tighter tolerance parts. Looser tolerances have to be incorporated to keep manufacturing costs down. The more complicated design also introduces slop into the design. But anytime you add automation to the tonearm you're introducing things that can go wrong. As far as automatic turntables it's a really good unit with it's strength being the Direct Drive's consistent speed.
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